Contributors

30 January 2011

Jesikah

Jesikah has been taking a lot of exceptional pictures and writing almost every thing to go with them. I was able to get a few pics of the her along the way. The first one is her on top of the camper van in an impossibly large valley outside of the Milford Sound. The second is in Dunedin's town square

Jon


Sheep!

Sheep Trials

On the way across the bottom of the South Island we stopped at a sheep herding trial. Really just a coincidence that I saw it out of the corner of my eye while driving 100 kph down a lonely stretch of country road. One of those things that you don't read about in travel books or the lonely plant that we are constantly on the look out for. There were no tourists just locals enjoying something they love to do. The old man to the right explained the whole objective. Basically the herder with their dog runs a set of sheep through a series of obstacles. The winner does it in the shortest amount of time

Jon

Road Trip Cont...

We then drove over to the east coast and followed the coastline up to Christchurch camping at some awesome surfing beaches along the way. One of the best parts about this trip was waking up everyday without an agenda or any idea where we would sleep that night. It is so freeing to be able to do that. The beaches were empty and vast. Unfortunately Jon's ring decided to stay at one of them, slipping off somewhere and disappearing on the waves of oblivion. We had a Gollum moment before sadly relinquishing our efforts and moving on up the coast. It was very sad, but it shouldn't be too hard to find him another one along the way...

We have spent the last 2 days exploring Christchurch, which is still recovering from its recent earthquake. It's really sad to see all of the old buildings in their dilapidated conditions (although I do love the textures in photographs of them), stores closed, and streets empty. (Jon was hoping to feel an aftershock, but we don't think we have.) It seems to be a pretty cool city. There was a street performance festival going on at Cathedral Square all weekend so we caught some of that, found some great cafes (Kiwis do coffee really really well), discovered a nice Brazilian bar, and enjoyed the English gardens.

We are off to Thailand tomorrow and are really excited! It's hard to believe that January is almost over!

-Jesikah

Road Trip Cont...

The drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound was breathtaking. There are a few permanent waterfalls along the way, but because it was raining there were hundreds--little ribbons streaming off cliffs all around us. We were to kayak the entire Milford Sound the following day, but because it was raining so fiercely and the wind and waves became impassible we had to turn back halfway. I was greatly disappointed because it was something I had been really looking forward to seeing, and most of the fiord was shrouded in fog. However, it did give the fiord a more mystical appearance and the waterfalls were truly amazing (which would not have been there if it hadn't been raining). After we turned back we were greeted by the most amazing thing: over 150 dusty nose dolphins!! They swam underneath and all around our kayaks and did flips in the air for us! It was incredible! It is a very rare occurrence in the Sound, and our guide had never seen anything like it. They are smaller than the bottle-nose, but are the most acrobatic and playful dolphins. They stayed with us for a long time before swimming off down the fiord. So much better than seeing the rest of Milford, so it was an incredible gift!!

-Jesikah

South Island cont...

Zip lining in Queenstown! The last zip line in the series of 6 flying foxes is the steepest and longest in the world.

Road trip cont...

Driving down the west coast from Greymouth to Queenstown was really gorgeous. We especially liked the part from Franz Joseph Glacier through Haast Pass and down to Wanaka. The pass from Haast to Wanaka is probably one of the most beautiful pieces of land I have ever seen. It travels between two enormous, impossibly blue lakes wedged between pointy green mountains. We spent some time at Haast beach, and were virtually alone except for the immensely irritating sandflies. These little buggers are ruthless. The Maoris believe that all things have a purpose on this earth, and that sandflies are here to keep us from being still or idle for too long- a purpose they seem hellbent on fulfilling.

-Jesikah

South Island Road Trip

We have loved spending time in beautiful, friendly New Zealand and a camper van is the only way to go. It has been our faithful companion coast to coast, over mountains, through gorges, fiords, waterfalls, beach forest, along beaches, countryside, in sunshine and in rain. We have slept in a different campsite every night (except in Queenstown where we spent two nights) and have cooked most of our meals. Jon has been a fabulous driver and hasn't had any problems driving on the other side... It's been really great! The landscape is phenomenal and the people are so friendly....tons of tourists, as expected, but they are from all over the world and are great to chat with. One of the things we really admire about the Kiwis is their dedication and great care of the natural environment and its preservation. It is of great importance here, and the air is so clean and clear and the land well cared for. We hope to carry that awareness with us!

Here are a few highlights of the trip:

23 January 2011

Orman Falls

We love New Zealand!

Here Are a few photos of our South Island experience so far. We are experiencing fantastic weather and are having a fabulous time!! We hiked up the mountain above Queenstown today and went zip lining today down it. (the steepest and longest zip line in the world! Super long hike!!) We loved it! And we have loved the drive down the west coast to get here....through Franz Joseph glacier and the gorgeous Wanaka...the twin lakes were phenomenal! More to come...

22 January 2011

Jan 15-20 cont


On Monday we began weaving our way 2.5 hours north of Auckland to John and Iris' lovely little beach house in Tinopai: Candy Cottage. It was built around 1907 and is a piece of local history as it was the area's post office and general store. They rescued it 17 years ago in a dilapidated condition, and after much work it is gorgeous! The drive up was filled with green rolling hills, pastures with cows and sheep, Maori villages, and the ancient and unusual Kauri tree. The vegetation is so interesting because it seems to combine the tropics with the north woods (both pine trees and palms)--it feels very pre-historic. We stopped at the Kauri Museum in Matakohe which houses many examples of the enormous tree in it's raw form as well as in carvings and home furnishings. It is one of the oldest trees known, and has been recorded at upwards of 40 meters with a diameter of 9 meters and as old as 40,000 years! It was very heavily logged so there aren't many examples left of the very large older trees, but the younger ones are growing and many are being planted. We had a great evening and watched the film "Earth" which had phenomenal cinematography and we would both highly recommend.

On Tuesday we wound our way back down to Aukland through sleepy beach towns and gorgeous coast. Whangari, Waipu Cove, Langs Beach (awesome modern, green architecture), Mangawhai Heads, Wellsford, stopped for a dip in the hot pools at Wenderholm Regional Park, Waiwera beach, watched kite surfers at Orewa, and back home again. It's hard to keep it all straight now, but we really liked the beautiful coastline with the pounding surf and the interesting houses pilled up along the east coast. It was so great to be shown around by locals...we would have never found those things ourselves!



Garden at Candy Cottage


Sent from my iPad

Jan 15-20 cont....

On Monday we began weaving our way 2.5 hours north of Auckland to John and Iris' lovely little beach house in Tinopai: Candy Cottage. It was built around 1907 and is a piece of local history as it was the area's post office and general store. They rescued it 17 years ago in a dilapidated condition, and after much work it is gorgeous! The drive up was filled with green rolling hills, pastures with cows and sheep, Maori villages, and the ancient and unusual Kauri tree. The vegetation is so interesting because it seems to combine the tropics with the north woods (both pine trees and palms)--it feels very pre-historic. We stopped at the Kauri Museum in Matakohe which houses many examples of the enormous tree in it's raw form as well as in carvings and home furnishings. It is one of the oldest trees known, and has been recorded at upwards of 40 meters with a diameter of 9 meters and as old as 40,000 years! It was very heavily logged so there aren't many examples left of the very large older trees, but the younger ones are growing and many are being planted. We had a great evening and watched the film "Earth" which had phenomenal cinematography and we would both highly recommend.
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> On Tuesday we wound our way back down to Aukland through sleepy beach towns and gorgeous coast. Whangari, Waipu Cove, Langs Beach (awesome modern, green architecture), Mangawhai Heads, Wellsford, stopped for a dip in the hot pools at Wenderholm Regional Park, Waiwera beach, watched kite surfers at Orewa, and back home again. It's hard to keep it all straight now, but we really liked the beautiful coastline with the pounding surf and the interesting houses pilled up along the east coast. It was so great to be shown around by locals...we would have never found those things ourselves!
>
>

21 January 2011

Camper Van Pick Up

For a good portion of the trip leading up to our arrival in Christchurch I couldn't stop thinking about and subsequently worrying about driving during our South Island journey. Not just driving but driving on the wrong side of the road in a foreign country, on foreign roads with roundabouts and 15 different signs and lights at every intersection. I'd wake up in the middle of the night in Fiji and my mind would start racing at the thought. Fast forward 2 weeks and I'm at the counter of the rental shop getting the keys to a van that looks like a space ship a 3 year old would design while waiting for his flu shots. Nothing about the van was ever really explained to me, in fact I still don't know where the tire iron and jack are. Anyways I get the keys, jump in and take off. This is trial by fire. Not only do I have to worry about all the things mentioned before but I'm also centrally located in the most populous city in the South Island. This brings a whole new layer of complexity to the situation. However, I'd like to mention that unlike in the States, pedestrians in New Zealand don't have the right of way, and they most certainly act like it. No one walks into the intersection unless there isn't a car within a mile. So I've got that going for me...which is nice. Jesikah and I take off without the slightest clue of where we're going other than we need to find a gas station (the car was given to us with under 1/4 tank left). We make our way with only the map my wingman has in her lap. Everything seems to be going fine until I reach my first roundabout / stoplight in downtown Christchurch. I'm almost positive I spun around and was spat out going down a oneway the wrong way. But disaster was avoided because no cars were oncoming. A few more blocks down I'm waiting behind a car turning right at a light I wish to go straight through. I see the light turning yellow so I nudge over to get around just as a car barreling behind me decides to do the same, and missed me by inches. We finally find a gas station and I pull in to fill up and change my Calvin's. Jesikah being my navigator suggests a route which coincidentally is the fastest path out of town. The rest is history, drove the next 3 hours through the foothills and mountains on the way to the west coast, a camp ground, and a cold beer.

Closed circuit to Brian Holmes at WDPI; I read your comment. I felt really bad taking off from work without settling up. I'm pretty sure this includes Weiberg & Pollman as well. So if you noticed the picture below of Jesikah and me with the van you'll also see a Heineken sitting on top of said van. Like I was saying I felt really bad bolting on you guys so I took the liberty of buying a 6 pack on you. I figured you would have wanted it that way. If this action doesn't please you go talk to Jay I'm sure he's still in my pocket, tell him I'll take it off his tab and collect the remainder when I get back.

-Jon

Jan 15-20 cont

Wednesday we spent the day in Auckland wandering around the different neighborhoods and shopping districts, galleries, visited the Cathedral (the cathedral of the South Pacific) where the Hamblings attend and Iris' private speech therapy practice is located. Really interesting and unusual stained glass--lots of New Zealand symbols and references to contemporary events. Also stopped in the Auckland Museum to see the extinct Moa bird (really strange enormous, flightless bird that the Maoris hunted to extinction. Because prehistoric New Zealand didn't have any large mammals, or really any predators of any kind (still really doesn't) the birds stopped flying because they were so safe and eventually no longer could. Looks a lot like Big Bird) Visited a Maori meeting house and huge huge huge canoe that once carried 100 Maori warriors. The sight of it empty was so fierce I couldn't imagine what it must have been like filled with angry decorated warriors with face paint. Finished the day with a walk along the beach in Devonport collecting shells. It was a wonderful introduction to friendly, beautiful New Zealand.

-Jesikah

More to come on Auckland

I accidentally deleted 2 posts on Auckland from our computer...hopefully we'll revisit them later. Here are some photos in the meantime.

Jan 15-20

I am writing from our little campervan as we drive from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass and onto Greymouth on the west coast of the South Island, New Zealand. We had a fabulous whirlwind tour of the North Island with John and Iris Hambling--(thank you so much again!!!) We were very well fed (corn on the cob, fresh berries and ice cream every day! I love summer!) and looked after those days! We had a lovely time and saw so incredibly much in those 3 days (the Hamblings are world class tour guides and very informed and proud of their country, as they should be) so I will list the highlights below.

Sunday evening we arrived in gorgeous Auckland to a bright blue sky and excellent views of Auckland from different volcanic hills: Mt. Victoria and Mt. Eden. Strolled along a beautiful beach in St. Heliers and a lovely dinner just off the beach.

Jan 9-14

Tomorrow is our last day at Musket Cove, and we have enjoyed our stay even though the weather has been terrible. Although the low pressure system is still hovering over Fiji with a hurricane nearby and no end in sight, Monday-Wednesday afternoon were free of rain so we were able to lay around at the beach, kayak, and snorkel. We still haven't seen the sun, but on those 3 afternoons we could see a bright spot behind the clouds and actually got a bit of color! One day there was even a small patch of blue sky in the distance, but that was it: a constant, hovering blanket of grey. On those days we all wandered around in our bewilderment with hesitant fingers poking the sky saying "That might be a blue spot over there...or maybe there one is!" We had forgotten the color of blue and had difficulty distinguishing it from the range of greys in the sky. There is terrible flooding in parts of Fiji, and it sounds like there is also in Australia, Brazil, and England, so we are lucky to get out of here before even more rain or a hurricane hits. We met a really nice Kiwi/British couple and had a great time chatting and playing Scrabble with them.


Familiarities from a past life haunt new spaces and linger in their silences: sometimes we hear our cell phones (which we've left behind) vibrating in the next room. And sometimes I hear the creak of our staircase or my grandmother's bare feet or my mother's silver bracelets or the drone of Sunday football or the silence of fresh snow, but mostly I just hear the rain. We look forward to our time in New Zealand...

- Jesikah

Jan 13

Sniffing Glue

In today's Fijian Sun Times there was an article (warning) about kids going back to school and how this year they should refrain from sniffing any glue. Seems last year there was a glue sniffing epidemic that contributed to the decline of proper education. While reading the article I'd begun to see parallels with the glue sniffing students and the islanders as a whole. A casual observer might even draw the conculsion that the entire population of Fiji is sniffing glue. Everyone I've encountered moves slower then Bryant Mckinnee on Sundays. If you get stuck walking behind a Fijian, you're best off consulting a map and finding a new route. If they give you a specific time to catch a boat or taxi, add a half hour, order lunch and then be on the look-out. However, and this is a constant, whatever they tell you they're going to do they will do just not on time. They get things done, just on their own time. This my friends is "Fijian time" and it must be as intoxicating as sniffing glue because everyone here is high on it.

14 January 2011

Jan 8

Jan 8

There are no words to describe how completely fabulous our Musket Cove bure is. (Thanks so much Mom and Dad!!!) I think I could live in it forever. Although it hasn't stopped raining for days and days and days, we don't really mind because we are just so happy to be here. They say it will clear up tomorrow, but it is only our first day here and we have time for it to pass. Jon fancies himself an amateur meteorologist and often wanders out to ponder the sky - apparently his dad does the same thing. Neither of us have ever seen constant rain like this. The ground can no longer absorb the water and large puddles form cavities on the roads and walkways. They say it is one large low-pressure system that is continuously circling the Fijian Islands, but thankfully it isn't a hurricane and will soon lose its strength and move on.


-jesikah

Jan 3-5






We finally arrived in Fiji and it is absolutely beautiful. Air Pacific
really went above and beyond by putting us up at a nice little hotel
in Nadi because we had missed the boat that morning to Otto & Fanny's.
We had a gorgeous breakfast on the verandah...beautiful flowers
everywhere. We then took a bus to the Yasawa Flyer (we were able to
reschedule without penalty which was great! Apparently our flight
delay had made the Fiji papers- it backed up all of the flights to
Australia and New Zealand and was a real mess.) and off to Otto &
Fanny's, a lazy five hour cruise through the Yasawa chain northwest of
the main island, Vita Levu. It was the most gorgeous day...not a cloud
in the sky, and each island we passed was breathtaking...exactly what
you would picture in the South Pacific: remote, white sandy beaches
and volcanic peaks. Tavewa Island was practically the last stop, and
we both agreed that we'd never been anywhere more remote. Our bure was
pretty much what we expected. Simple thatch hut with views of the
ocean and garden. The generator was only on in spurts throughout the
day, but we didn't mind. We spent that first day napping and swimming
between meal times, and there was only one other couple there. The
beach was lovely, but not the powdery white sand we experience in the
Caribbean...it is a bit rougher, but that is what we loved about
Tavewa Island. There is absolutely nothing manicured about it. The
beach all but disappeared during high tide in the evening, but would
reappear again in the morning and we would walk out to a deserted
point and snorkel. In fact, most days we were lone souls exploring the
beach, not another in sight. And the water was the bluer than you can
imagine, appropriately called the Blue Lagoon. (The islanders seem to
be quite proud of Brook Shields' "Blue Lagoon" that was filmed nearby.
We haven't seen it but as you can imagine it has terrible ratings.)
The second day drizzled but we still got in some snorkeling and
exploring and napping, and the food was really fresh and tasty.
(During mealtimes they played American band-boy music on the radio.
Even in one of the most remote places on Earth there is no escape from
American pop-culture.) We also experienced an important local custom,
or way of life really: the drinking of grog, or kava. It is basically
a mixture of water and a powder form of a local root, making a very
mild narcotic. I think you have to drink gallons to experience
anything (which they do - hours and hours of drinking grog in a
ceremonial like circle) but it makes your lips and tongue go slightly
numb after a few rounds. It kinda feels like novocain. They hand you a
little bowl of the stuff taken from a much larger bowl and you have to
clap 3 times after drinking. They continue around the circle until the
bowl is empty and repeat and repeat long into the night. We both
agreed that it tastes exactly like licking an envelope or eating
paper. They used to make it from chewing the root and spitting it out
into a big bowl, but apparently the missionaries talked them out of
that pretty fast. There is no way I could stomach drinking someone
else's saliva, no matter how culturally relevant. Our experience of
grog drinking was rather unceremonial and touristy, but at least we
got a taste. We have been reading Paul Theroux's "The Happy Isles of
Oceania" which is excellent and explains this much better than I
could.


-jesikah


Jan 6-8





Thursday started out clear, so the 6 of us staying at Otto & Fanny's decided to do one of the few offered activities: diving the Sawa-I Lau caves. Swimming through an enclosed dark underwater space to arrive at an even darker enclosed underwater space is not exactly my idea of a good time, but Thursday turned into a day for me to conquer some of my fears, which I will later explain. The boat trip to the caves was complete madness. Somehow the driver managed to pack 25 people onto a 12 foot alumacraft (not to mention that the only other American woman on the boat was pushing 350lbs.) This in and of itself seemed enough to capsize us in the middle of the Pacific, but about 20 min into the trip it began to rain angry buckets from the sky and continued the rest of the 50min trip. But we made it alright. Once we got to the island, we were escorted off a rocky beach to a staircase up the side of a mountain and into a deep, clear pool inside an open roof cave. Not too terribly exciting, but we were a bit riled-up from the boat trip and the uncertainty of what they would be asking us to do next. This next thing was the first of my conquered fears, and I think one of Jon's, too. We all huddled about one section of the cave along a wall and were asked to dive under the wall (a few feet) and "swim towards the light" into a pitch dark cave. Wow. We had goggles, obviously, and it wasn't as bad as you might think because the guide on the other side had a flashlight and by the time we got in there it was already filled with screaming Asian girls and German boys flashing photos. So there wasn't quite enough silence for me to imagine dark, lurking things. It was a cathedral-like space with empty stone carved-out walls and small bits of light streaming in places, but no stalactites or stalagmites to speak of. We dont have any photos of this experience but you can picture us treading water in a dark, damp space or grasping along the walls for holes to hold onto, which I was certain must be the homes of water snakes. The ride back was a bit better and largely uneventful. More rain.
My second conquered fear was much harder for me to conquer, and Jon thinks I will have to conquer it many more times on this trip. After our afternoon nap I discovered an enormous black, long-legged, shiny spider perched on a beam near our bed, but too high to reach. I almost lost my mind, and below is a photograph. It seems absolutely ridiculous to harbor an almost paralyzing fear of something about the size of your hand, but fear is rarely reasonable. So at dinner time (where I conquered fear number 3: eating spiders! No, just kidding, but they look similar. This was not really a fear, but we ate crabs cooked in their shell..they were really amazing though!) we asked them to try and get rid of the spider. Two women waddled on down to the bure in the rain and returned looking hardly triumphant but said they had successfully removed it. Sure enough when we returned it was still most definitely there. It had been pouring rain all day so our bure was also inhabited by ants, a few cockroaches and some chirping geckos. This did not come as a surprise to Jon, bless his heart, but I didn't know if I could survive the night with that spider in there. I could deal with cockroaches and ants and geckos, but NOT the spider. It could crawl into my ear or other body cavity and lay its eggs! Although they say the spiders in Fiji are harmless, who knows what that thing could be capable of. Well, Jon tucked us up really tight beneath the mosquito net (thank God for the mosquito net!) and told me the spider was there protecting me from the mosquitos like Charlotte. I imagined it as some kind of benevolent being watching over us, said a few whimpering prayers, and we actually slept just fine. In the morning it was gone and we were leaving to Nadi as well. It is just like my grandfather always says: it is no use worrying because the things you worry about never happen. It is what you don't even think to worry about that will happen. I spent the weeks leading up to our departure worrying about Jon getting killed from a falling coconut (Otto & Fanny's is a copra plantation) and strangely enough we never even saw a falling coconut. It never even crossed my mind to worry about spiders.
In the end both things are stupid to worry about. It was still monsooning outside and we had to take the little fishing boat through the rain and waves to board the Yasawa Flyer. All that I can say about the ensuing five hour ride on the Yasawa Flyer is this: neither Jon nor I thought we got seasick, but after that roller coaster ride we thought it possible. We didn't get sick, but those were the largest waves we'd ever seen! We were thrilled to arrive at our hotel in Nadi- Beachside Resort was cheap and clean and we had a lovely dinner. This morning we arrived at Musket Cove (a thirty-min boat trip) and are now waiting for our room. It is lovely here although still raining, but it is supposed to clear up soon. In fact, the sky is now lightening a bit...

-jesikah

Day 1 and 2 THIS IS NOT FIJI!!!!
Stranded in L.A. There were problems with the plane's navigation system, so after spending several frustrating hours on the tarmac (Jon was considering strangling a group of overzealous evangelizing Mormon missionaries "that moved about the lame air - o - plane like locusts") we were shuttled off to a nearby hotel. We spent the night at The Hacienda curtesy of Air Pacific--cold and drafty with two single beds. A disappointing start, but we have decided that this is quite possibly the first of several setbacks and we need to make the best of these things. You win some, you lose some...that's just the way it goes. At least we got a decent nights rest and will hopefully be able to reschedule the Yasawa Flyer without a penalty. Although it is unfortunate to miss an entire day at Otto and Fanny's, especially because it takes so long to get up there from Nadi. Woke up fairly early and walked a couple miles to El Segundo Beach (near Manhattan each)...a bit dreary (especially for L.A... 50s! But like Jon said we are just weather-acclimating ourselves...like trekkers at the Mt. Everest base camp...10s to 50s to 80s...not bad.) It rained a bit on us so we took a cab back, but it was so nice to see the ocean. The colors were really beautiful and we were practically the only ones there. I was able to weasel in some shots of Jon...a rare occurrence but more to come! We've been listening to our trip theme song to lift our spirits ('Home' by Edward Sharp and the Magnetic Zeros)..."home is wherever with you!!" That is one of the many wonderful things about marriage--we are always home when together. And we will soon be greeted by a southern sun and all will be forgotten.